It was fun and therapeutic to some degree, as I like to work with my hands. So here are a few pics. Basically this involved removing the fuel tank first. Then I removed the air box(which contains the air filter), so that I could get access to the oil pressure sender. The sender screws out with an open faced wrench (I used a 22mm but a smidge smaller would have been better).
In went the new sender and then I put everything back together and egads!!....it started :=)
9 comments:
Can the sender be replaced without completely removing the gas tank and air box?
I understand it can from others I have talked to. I think they were able to access it from in front of the left side cylinder. I have not tried that method as I found it quite simple to remove the tank and air box for unfettered access to the sending unit.
Thanks for the prompt reply. Since I recently started experiencing the triangle and oil symbol after a restart when hot, I want to replace the switch since I see there has been problems in this area. the warning always went away at highway speed. I am using Amsoil 60 weight full synthetic motorcycle oil so I don't believe it to be a thinning problem. I have heard of problems with the so called quick disconnect fuel line and wanted to avoid those issues. Also tim is of the essence. Want to make the GRIT Rally this weekend and don't have a lot of spare time to work on the bike.
Try searching the wildguzzi.com forum or the guzzitech.com forums or posting there. I think you will get some advice from someone who has tackled the job w/o removing the tank and air box and/or give you some advice on the "quick" disconnect.
Here is what one fellow went through to get at it w/o removing the tank, etc....
I just had that problem on my Norge at the end of last month. Only took me 2.5 hours to change the thing. You have to remove the left header pipe and work in the incredibly narrow space between the cylinder and the engine mount. A piece of fuel line slipped over the electrical connector on the top of pressure sensor will do what no amount of fancy tool combinations, forceps, pliers, screwdrivers, duct tape or cussing will do - allow you to thread it back in to the block in the horribly inaccessible location behind the engine mount. Then all you need is an off-set wrench to tighten it and a set of long forceps to maybe put the wire back on. I wound up screwing up the wire and had to replace the end. This time, I just left the damned rubber connector cover off so that I could actually get the wire on. Honestly, I think they must put the wiring on before they raise the engine up into place. On my previous Guzzis, this would have been a walk in the park. On the Norge, it's more like being mugged in the park. The red light is out along with the warning. Good. It lights up at ignition on, so I know the indicator is good, but I'm not getting any indication of no oil pressure when the engine isn't running but the ignition is on so I suppose the sensor may not be good.
I really recommend you go the route of removing tank and such. I think you will save yourself a lot of headaches and cursing.
Plus....you can change the air filter while your under there.
Agreed!
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